As it turns out, both are correct. Attached to the stylish Nine Zero Hotel, KO Prime, opened three years ago by James Beard award-winning chef Ken Oringer and helmed by executive chef Josh Buehler, is a chic, sexy American steakhouse. The restaurant’s fusion of upscale ingredients and bold takes on classic recipes make for revelatory – and, in many cases, expensive—dishes. But don’t assume that the restaurant is out of your reach, as there are regular early-evening discounts on food and drinks in the bar. So come for the after-work nibbles or come for the blowout entrees. Basically, just come – because this is culinary craftsmanship you don’t want to miss.

“The steaks are amazing, but our other entrees are awesome too,” said Mark Spence, the restaurant’s assistant general manager and sometimes-sommelier. “The chicken is big enough to feed an army. The snapper’s a favorite of mine. And people come just for the short rib macaroni and cheese.”

Now that your dining mind is made up, step off the Freedom Trail (the historic Granary Burying Ground is right across the street), pass underneath that cow and ascend the brushed-stainless steel staircase to enter into KO Prime’s sexy, dimly lit den. Overhead apertures, orange and ovular, cast an ethereal glow. On your right is an ultra-modern white bar backed by frosted glass, surrounded by comfy, stuffed chairs that invite lingering and small plate-sharing. In the divided dining room, the walls and furniture are seductive shades of brown and red, and dark-wood tables and padded banquettes are accented by throw pillows, chairs and other décor with leathery textures and cow prints, reminding you that, even in so classy an establishment, one of your first questions to your waiter probably ought to be, “Where’s the beef?”

KO Prime’s bar is alluring on its own, but a quick peek at the cocktail menu makes it that much better. The menu is separated into three sections: A taste of the past, a taste of the present and a taste of things to come. As such, there are historic-themed conconctions like the Boston Tea Party (Clement Rhum Creole Shrubb liqueur, chai tea and lime juice served chilled in a teacup, $10); modern drinks like the Temptation (Finlandia vodka, Pimms No. 1 gin, apple juice, mint and ginger ale, $10) and futuristic cocktails like the Boston Garden (Woodford Reserve bourbon, Tawny port wine, cherry and mint syrup, $14) and the Green Tea Calamansi Gimlet (Hangar One kaffir lime vodka, calamansi citrus juice, lime juice, ginger and green tea, a whopping $18). These latter two are billed as “liquid-nitrogen cocktails,” a stunning presentation that chills the drink without diluting the alcohol or the flavor and gives off the appearance of puffs of smoke emanating from the frosted glass. We all ought to receive belated chemistry credits just for imbibing this frothy libation.

Of course, this is a steakhouse, so its wine list is stellar. On our visit, Spence introduced us to several varietals paired with our dinner orders, which will be discussed below.

Our first amuse bouche of the evening did exactly what it was intended to do: Upped our anticipation for the rest of the meal to stratospheric levels. How can you not fall in love with a teacup-sized portion of velvety corn soup, laced with mascarpone cheese and toasted pistchios, that packs more flavors than full quarts of soup manage to do at some lesser restaurants? The creamy, pale yellow concoction was absolutely heavenly, and probably would have been a perfect accompaniment to the hearty breads in the bread basket – if I had let it last that long. Paired with the soup, we had a glass of cava, a fine, sparkly wine the color of a light rosé with a fruity, crisp finish.

At this point, we couldn’t resist the call of the wild any longer: Our Kobe beef tartare ($14) hardly hit the table before our forks cleaved its silky surface. The meat, finely chopped and blended with spices and oils so it can achieve that double take-worthy creaminess, was crowned with a deep-fried quail egg that we cracked open, allowing the soft yolk to run over the beef. The dish also came with a roasted jalapeno aioli, speckled with bacon, to fold into the beef as well. “It’s as spicy as you want it – and you can use the lime to cool it down,” our wonderful waitress, Melissa, explained. There was also a small bowl of crispy fried tortilla strips, providing a satisfying crunch. All told, it was addictively good: Even knowing full well that other appetizers, an entrée and dessert still awaited me, I polished the dish off, leaving nary a bacon crumble in sight.

The shrimp cocktail, ceviche-style ($17) was more cocktail than traditional ceviche, arriving in a tall glass bowl, on ice, and garnished with slivers of onions, red pepers, chives and orange zest. The five gigantic, tail-on shrimp were bathed in a barbecue-like glaze, the subtleties of which escaped me at first (perhaps my palate was still processing the beef tartare). But, on second taste, the sauce struck me as far more nuanced, piquant and infused with orange zest flavors. My sole complaint: A disappointing dearth of avocado, which had been listed in the menu description and helped sell me on the dish. There were some small green cubes but not nearly enough for an avocado junkie like me.  But the Latin flavor shone through thanks to the four large slices of fried green plantains, also known as tostones (as opposed to the sweet variety, called maduros) that rimmed the edge of the plate.

We enjoyed these two appetizers with a wine intended to complement their spiciness. The pinot gris, from J Vineyards & Winery in California, was a medium-yellow color with floral, green grape and pear aromas and a lingering aftertaste.

Two off-menu appetizers that made their way to our table had me asking whether they’d be into the regular rotation anytime soon. The thin-sliced lamb carpaccio, sprinkled with cracked pepper and capped with arugula leaves, topped a crusty baguette steeped in red pepper coulis and bordered by crumbled feta cheese. The savory lamb meat was beyond delectable – I had to intercept my dining companion’s fork before he devoured it all!! The flavors were all bold – feta, in particular, occasionally overpowers other elements in a dish – but in this case, the team effort was unbeatable.

Then, there were the black mission figs—teardrop-shaped with thin black skin and a deep red flesh — stuffed with blue cheese, speckled with crushed hazelnuts and draped in thin, curling layers of dry-cured prosciutto. There was even a pretty pink petal punctuating the petite pillar, picking up on the wine-red color of the huckleberry coulis underneath the picture-perfect creation. These earthy treats, ideal during the fall harvest season, were soft, warm and soothing, with a nice, compact wrap. Like a sushi roll, you could pop the whole thing into your mouth at once and savor the flavors together.

With these latter two appetizers, we drank the Acrobat 2009 pinot noir from King Estate in Oregon, which the restaurant serves by the glass. Spence told us it would enhance but not overwhelm the food, and he was right on. Its berry notes, tempered by some smoky tendrils, made it a mellow, smooth partner. 

We’re not done: The appetizer portion of the meal wound down with another little amuse bouche, a guzzle-worthy glass of homemade spiced pumpkin soda. Chef Buehler delivered the drink to us personally, and explained that it wasn’t topped with any old foam, but bubbly crème fraiche. It was further accented with an apple-slice garnish and a scattering of candied pistachios around the base of the glass. The soda’s deep cinnamon and nutmeg flavors were perfect for fall, but it’s a crime that this sweet, sparkly treat isn’t sold in stories all year round. Melissa, our waitress, explained that the restaurant’s soda flavors change with the seasons, so come by sooner rather than later for this pumpkin-scented dream, and start fantasizing about the concoctions Buehler will deliver this winter and beyond!

Could KO Prime’s entrees live up to the appetizers? You better believe it.  We almost melted into the super-tender 10 oz. filet mignon ($44), beautifully charred, nicely seasoned and crested with chimichurri, a spicy South American condiment containing red onion, parsley, oil and a blend of spices. The side of creamed spinach whipped with mascarpone ($8) made good on its reputation as a steakhouse staple. And the braised short rib macaroni and cheese ($11) — browned on top and loaded with penne pasta, rich meat and, of course, cheese — proved why it’s available as an entrée in its own right. My dining companion loved the steak – said his knife sank right through it – but admitted that the mac ‘n’ cheese made him just as happy.

Wishing to see how KO Prime handled an entrée other than steak, we also ordered the red snapper with lobster ($30). There were so many delicious elements to this dish, any of which could have stood on its own! The cream sauce, which served as the base for succulent lobster chunks, assumed the scent and taste of the pea tendrils scattered throughout – I didn’t even need to recheck the menu to know what I was tasting. The ravioli were divine, soft pillows exploding with ricotta cheese and plump corn kernels. The dish’s crowning glory, a well-sized portion of browned, spiced snapper, was perfectly prepared, flaking easily and combining gloriously with the pea-flavored bisque.

It probably wasn’t easy to find a wine that would match both of these entrees, but Spence pulled it off with the 2007 St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel. Hailing from Sonoma, the deep red relied on heavy, dark fruit notes and a toasty, spicy finish to satisfy our palates.

To keep those palates cleansed, an oval scoop of house-made pineapple sorbet arrived at the table, dotted with tiny pineapple chunks and set off by a single blueberry. It was very sweet, creamy and fresh, and while I usually prefer ice cream or frozen yogurt to sorbet, KO Prime’s version might change my mind.

At the behest of my dining companion – a big Sam Adams fan who probably never expected to see his favorite brew on the dessert menu – we ordered the Sam Adams float ($10). A triple-level pumpkin cake layered with whipped mascarpone was topped with a scoop of brown sugar and bourbon ice cream, made in-house, with a line of crumbled sugared pecans on the side. On another plate, chewy oatmeal cookies were baked with a blend of autumnal spices. Then, in a nearby glass, there was a tall, cold, frothy beer. The interplay between the three elements – forkful of cake, mouthful of cookie, swig of Sam – was well thought-out and a superb (not to mention alcohol-soaked) end to our meal.

Well, not quite the end. There was one last treat: A chocolate yuzo truffle. The rich chocolate square had decadence written all over it. The yuzo is a Japanese citrus fruit, the tartness of which really came through, reminding us, one more time, of the restaurant’s unwavering commitment to taking culinary risks that leave satiated customers hungering to return.

Assessment
Those passersby on Tremont Street weren’t kidding: KO Prime is absolutely divine, and certainly belongs in the discussion of the best steakhouse in the city. While the menu is pricey – and it’s no surprise, given the quality ingredients and swanky atmosphere – this restaurant isn’t for high rollers only. If a full dinner stretches your budget too far, visit the bar in the early evening and split some small plates with friends. If you can afford the splurge, this is an impressive spot in a prime downtown location perfect for special occasions. Of course, my start-to-finish fantastic meal already has me plotting a return visit – no special occasion necessary.

KO Prime
Address: 90 Tremont Street, Boston, MA 02108
Phone: 617.772.0202
Website: http://www.koprimeboston.com

Delfino Restaurant

“Even the tomato sauce is meticulously cooked,” Diaz said. “[Owner Stephen Judge’s] philosophy on our food is it’s got to be made with love, and if he doesn’t love it, it doesn’t leave the kitchen.”

The restaurant thrives on word of mouth and its neighborhood reputation. An open kitchen is tucked into the corner, where you can watch the chefs prepare your dishes and see them occasionally lean over the bar to chat with customers, and upbeat jazz music sets a breezy feel. So settle into your seat, study the menu and prepare to dive into a low-key, memorable feast.

Read my full review of Delfino Restaurant in Roslindale, Mass., on TableCritic.com, and find out why I love exploring the restaurants of the Parkway! You can also click on the photos to the left to enlarge them.

In my first article for Patch West Roxbury, a new online newspaper covering this neighborhood of Boston, I paid a visit to Al Wadi Lebanese Restaurant, which opened in mid-August on the VFW Parkway. Check out those beautifully plated, hot-off-the-grill lamb and chicken kebabs! I also had a great chat with head chef Walid Massad about my hunt for the perfect falafel. Have you tried Al Wadi? If so, what did you think?

Want to experience a side of Boston dining enjoyed by the area’s top athletes, visiting movie stars, Back Bay 9-to-5ers kicking back after a day at the office and anybody with some money to spend who’s looking for a special night out? Then Abe & Louie’s, on Boylston Street in the Back Bay, is well worth the splurge.

The steakhouse is the centerpiece of the Back Bay Restaurant Group, which also features next-door neighbor Atlantic Fish Company, Bouchee, Papa Razzi and more. In other words, this is a group of restaurateurs you can trust to treat your palate right. Its high-end American cuisine—centered on a top-notch wine list, Midwest-raised cattle and New England-sourced seafood—has garnered numerous awards from publications such as Wine Spectator and Boston Magazine.

But don’t let those accolades intimidate you. “What’s nice is, we’re not pretentious,” says manager William Seldon III. “There’s a great vibe here, from business to casual.”

There’s an outdoor patio for people-watching – and, of course, to be seen. Inside, there’s a lustrous, old-timey feel, with lots of dark wood and oversized, Renoir-esque murals that make diners feel as though they’re the guests of a rich art collector. Service is perfectly in line with the atmosphere. Waiters wear suit jackets and some sport bow ties, and food is pushed around on carts (would you call that “Steaks on a Plane”?). You can easily see why Abe & Louie’s has attracted its share of movie stars who pass through Boston, as well as members of the Celtics, Red Sox and Patriots. This is a place for the city’s power brokers, but also for Bostonians who appreciate well-executed cuisine and the chance to hobnob in one of the top restaurants this city has to offer.

Read the full Abe & Louie’s review — including my take on its ooey-gooey lobster mac ‘n’ cheese masterpiece — on TableCritic.com. You can also click on any of the photos to the left to enlarge them.

• Administrators in the three towns I began covering earlier this year — Norfolk, Plainville and Wrentham — were none too pleased with the King Philip Regional School District budget, saying it leans too heavily on one-time funds and sets the schools up for bigger cuts the following year. 
• I’ve been following school construction projects in Franklin and Medway closely the past few years. As the beginning of the school year approaches both towns are moving closer to hiring architects and beginning schematic design work.
• If you’ve ever played on the athletic fields in Ashland, a recent report — which finds that the fields are overused and worn down — probably won’t surprise you. But what might catch your attention is the $5 million price tag that could accompany the recommended creation of seven to nine new fields.

dbar, in Dorchester’s Savin Hill neighborhood, is known by many – and deservedly so—for its late-night happenings and weekly theme nights, including Show Tune Tuesdays and iThursdays, when guests fuel their own dance party via iPod playlists.

But those who might know dbar only for its late-night entertainment are missing out, because the full-service restaurant—American cuisine with French, Asian and Italian emphases — has become a standout of the Dorchester dining scene since it opened five years ago.

Credit dbar owner Brian Piccini and 26-year-old executive chef Chris Coombs, who has achieved some measure of celebrity-chef status thanks to successful stints in various area restaurants and an appearance this spring on the Food Network show “Chopped.” (The pair’s new venture, the French restaurant Deuxave, is slated to open in the Back Bay this fall.)

“I’m always really attracted to what I can grow and serve myself,” said Coombs, who backs up this claim with dbar’s rooftop garden, from which he estimates 60 percent of the produce he serves stems. The tranquil garden offers ruffles of mesclun lettuce, verdant arugula, fresh herbs and even vibrant red nasturtium flowers with edible, peppery petals. You can dine just below this rooftop garden, in a cozy outdoor patio accented by lime and noir chairs and aluminum-brushed tables. The restaurant’s 55-seat dining room, bisected by a black leather banquette that separates diners from the bar, is outfitted in dark wood and an exposed brick wall. It has a swanky feel, yet you never doubt Coombs’ claim that guests dressed any way they like – “even in shorts and flip-flops”—are welcome. The result is a mix of people that truly represents the diversity of the neighborhood.

Read my full dbar review — including my take on the huckleberry-rhubarb martini and graham flour-encrusted calamari — at TableCritic.com. You can also click on the photos at the left to enlarge them.

That’s one of the things I love about Trazzler, an online destination for concise, evocative travel writing and photography. You write a 65- to 120-word piece on a travel topic, upload a photo if you have one and that’s it — if they like the piece, they’ll publish it as a “Trazzler trip.” If they choose not to publish it, it will still live online, and you can direct family, friends and potential editors to your work — here’s my Trazzler portfolio. They’re also really good about promoting their writers’ pieces through Twitter, which I appreciate.

Yes, this requires doing some unpaid writing to start, but Trazzler also runs monthly writing contests, with prizes that include not only on-location travel writing contracts (I was a runner-up in a contest where the grand prize was a trip to Hawaii! So close!) but also free hotel stays and freelance contracts to write about destinations of your choice. I’ve seen contest winners who’ve only published a single trip on Trazzler, so if you’ve got the chops, they’ll take notice.

Now off to contemplate my entries for the On the Road and Smart Travel contests…. Also, I’m a bit behind on updating my Trazzler pieces on this blog, so I’ll be doing that shortly.

The Boston area is becoming more and more amenable to these mobile food trucks — there’s even a food truck festival planned for next weekend. I love the creativity that goes into these enterprises, the way some use Twitter to broadcast their whereabouts (this is especially big in L.A.) and, of course, the excellent and increasingly sophisticated food they serve! What’s your favorite mobile food truck? Are there many in your area?